Nose-to-Tail-to-Nose.

We choose local, organic, sustainable, biodynamic, hormone-friendly and…PUFA Conscious.

What are PUFAs, and Why Should We Care?

PUFA is short for Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid. Despite many modern claims, there is a lot of evidence to suggest that these fats, frequently touted as “heart healthy, ” can be damaging to our metabolism when they aren’t: (a) properly sourced and (b) in proper balance to other fats, and should therefore be consumed with consideration. These include oils from grains, seeds, some nuts, and even some fish. (See resources at the bottom for real scientists who have real scientific opinions that I can’t pretend to explain.) Saturated fats, on the other hand, are more stable and don’t pose the same risks, but in isolation can be disruptive for some people’s skin (coconut oil, beef tallow, etc.). Each kind of fat has its own benefits, and its own risks associated with it.

Our metabolism is not the simple metric of how easily we lose or gain weight, though this is typically the only context in which it’s discussed. ‘Metabolism’ refers to the ability of a cell, a group of cells (“tissue”), a group of tissues (“organ”), and a group of organs (“organism”) to turn fuel into energy. Energy isn’t just the feeling of a spark after we’ve had a cup of coffee or a good run, it’s the literal chemical process that builds cells that are very specialized to do certain tasks. Without enough cellular energy to create specificity, our tissues get compromised… they don’t renew as easily, they don’t hold the structures that they need to, they don’t do their jobs perfectly, and over time this creates a whole spectrum of illnesses and disorders.

Humans by definition are one of the most adaptable species on the planet, and we have a seemingly endless supply of back-up systems when our “machinery” or our signals aren’t working optimally. Many, perhaps most, members of contemporary Western society are running on a series of back-up systems, energized more effectively by adrenaline and stress than by a functional metabolism that burns clean.

Eventually, these systems fail to run the marathon we ask of them, as they were designed for the sprint. Over time, the tissues which are farthest from our vital organs (i. e. the skin) receive the least amount of nutrition as the body works on overdrive to keep the primary systems running. And the reason this matters to BearFaced, is that I have been convinced by time and experience that until we treat the skin as an organ and view it through this metabolic or biological lens, we will be missing the mark. Traditional dermatologists prescribe a toolkit that generally offers little beyond a handful of antimicrobial products and steroids.

Alternative practitioners will belabor detox till the cows come home- and while we agree that detox is critical, I haven’t found sufficient explanations for why some of us are so bad at detoxifying to begin with from the mainstream alternative health world including functional medicine, naturopathy, traditional herbalism, acupuncture and so on. (And no, the MTHFR gene is not a complete explanation although that one is one of the more recent bandwagons to gain attention.) Under the metabolic lens, the reason for poor detox is an impaired metabolism, and the reason for chronic infection is the same. Without sufficient metabolic energy, the tissues won’t perform… that means the tissues that make up our liver, our immune cells, our skin, our thyroid and so on.

Until we understand that our eczema, our acne, our melasma, our premature aging, even our dermatitis is likely the result of an underlying issue- which even underlies the food sensitivities that are currently so trendy- we won’t understand how to completely heal and cure our skin. We will be slaves to band-aiding the problem for the rest of our lives with stressful protocols and regimens.

Many practitioners have a better grasp of the biochemical pathways involved in this process than me, and I am happy to refer curious readers onward. For our purposes, we have learned that adding excess or industrially generated PUFAs to our body through our skin may not only generate longterm skin concerns like lipofuscin (referred to as “age-spots”), but that the absorbed PUFAs may be contributing to systemic anti-metabolic activity. And yet, we recognize that a healthy human epidermis contains a certain amount of PUFA, a certain amount of Mono-unsaturated fatty acids, and saturated fats. Each kind of fat delivers certain benefits and poses certain challenges.

At the risk of sounding like a cannibal, I think it would be fair to say that the best thing to nourish human skin would be some sort of extract made from healthy human skin. It would implicitly contain all of the chemical compounds needed to rebuild and repair our tissue. Elite skincare products are marketed for their synthetic peptides, all of which have a chemical structure rooted somewhere in nature- such as peptides that mimic the repair capacity of infant skin.

Bears are revered in many traditional cultures for their “humanness”- their behavior (they behold beauty, drink beer, and dance!) as well as their stature when on two legs, seem to position our two species together in an intimate way. Bear fat presents us with a combination of fatty acids, esters, cholesterols and other lipids that echo the chemistry of human skin. When we apply bear fat to human skin, the skin recognizes the “building blocks” immediately in a way which outperforms ruminant tallows, although we are supporters of animal-based skincare and any other practices which honor animal life and death, and human ancestral traditions. We feel that this approach is one of the best for our skin as well as our hormones.

Metabolic and endocrine (hormonal) health is another reason we do not include any estrogenic or potentially estrogenic essential oils in our products with the exception of 3 gift balms (BEARd, Deep Woods, and Hair Oil Mask.) Many practitioners in the metabolic health space hold growing concerns around the use of these essential oils, which are not oils but Volatile Organic Compounds which have the potential to injure tissue directly (due to volatility) and indirectly (due to estrogenicity.)

We are not Purists.

We don’t believe that the stress of trying to reduce exposure to every possible offender, contaminant, allergen, ingredient, or toxin is possible or healthy. (Though we tried this for years, and can speak to the benefits and risks of excessive elimination protocols.)

However, with BearFaced we have eliminated any PUFA ingredients other than the PUFAs which are present in bear fat in the same concentrations that are present in healthy human fat. The same goes for beef tallow and coconut oil, other predominantly saturated fats which also contain PUFAs. It’s not about strict avoidance, it’s about understanding.

ProMetabolic is a term I am reluctant to use, but it’s one of the adjectives that describes this approach. Another one is BioEnergetic, which I dislike even more because it sounds like so many thousands of wellness treatments that offer vague benefits, cost thousands of dollars, and are likely to offer vague results.

But if we think of the term BioEnergetic and understand that the “Energy” referred to here means organic energy required by the cells- the literal ATP or adenosine triphosphate- then it begins to make more sense. This approach means prioritizing the production of ATP, and watching as tissues begin to heal themselves because they are finally properly fed, and they can resume their advanced functions once again. Vitamins, fats, peptides and sugars make up a healthy human diet. Why shouldn’t they make up our skincare as well?

I have been extremely prudent in choosing skin-renewing and endocrine/immune friendly ingredients for all acids, extracts, ferments, preservatives and emulsifiers. We are skin health detectives, and are certain that if our products do not help your skincare journey, that we can help figure out what is causing any underlying imbalance.

The following are resources to some of the “lay-people” who have helped me understand how to properly interpret the scientific works of Dr.s and PhDs Constance R Martin, Gilbert Ling, Hans Selye, Broda Barnes, Ray Peat, Georgi Dinkov, Chris Masterjohn, Kyle Mamounis and others.

I have found that by learning directly from biochemists and other researchers, and bypassing medical narratives which weren’t helping me solve problems, I have created lasting positive changes in my skin and overall health.

Resources:

Danny Roddy Web Blog: https://dannyroddy.substack.com

Kyle Mamounis https://www.youtube.com/c/Nutricrinology

Jessica Ash Wellness https://www.jessicaashwellness.com

PhD Ray Peat’s website www.RayPeat.com

Kori Meloy www.KoriMeloy.com

Kitty Martone Podcast “Things Your Doctor Should Know” https://healthygutgirl.com/podcasts/